Slip lasted shoe with a three section insole



May 22, 1956 F. MACCARONE 2,746,176

SLIP LASTED SHOE WITH A THREE SECTION INSOLE Filed Oct. 22, 1953 4 Sheets-Sneet 1 IN VEN TOR. FRED MA acme 0/VE BY (77M HTTOR/VEYS May 22, 1956 F. MACCARONE 2,746,176

SLIP LASTED SHOE WITH A THREE SECTION INSOLE Filed Oct. 22, 1955 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. FAfD MflCUfl/YONE A'TTORNEYS May 22, 1956 F. MACCARONE 2,746,176

SLIP LASTED SHOE WITH A THREE SECTION INSOLE Filed Oct. 22, 1953 4 Sheets-Silas; 3

IN V EN TOR. FRED MHCCHR ONE ATTORNEYS May 22, 1956 F. MACCARONE SLIP LASTED SHOE WITH A THREE SECTION INSOLE 4 Sheets-Sneet 4 Filed Oct. 22, 1953 M mlw HTTORNEYS United States Patent SLIPLASTEDSHOE WITH A THREE SECTION INSOLE TredMaccarone, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Applicationv October 22,1953,'Serial No. 387,641

. 3 Claims. (Cl. 36"12) This inventionirelates.to; shoes and 'process of making 1 same, and, in certain aspects thereof, relates to improvements' upon the shoes: and processesof' making the same disclosed inrmy copendingapplication"Serial No. 351,933 'filedeApril '29,;1953.

An.extensiveidemandexistsfor shoes and like articles 20f ifootwear"whichthaveiflexibility acrossthe sole and 'many suggestions :have been advanced for the purpose -..-ofinereasi ng;such fflex ibility. Therehas also been .a tendency :to restrict the-"operations"carriedout'in the --manufacture:of shoes to machinery-rather than depending upon the skill ofthe shoemaker Working at' the benCh.

i'lhetobject :ofthis invention isto'produce shoes and 'like tarticleseof feotwearsuch as'open toe and back and .closed-shoes,zpumps, and related footwear, which have great-flexibility.inithe sole and whichbecause of the =simplicity1-ofathe. partsand their'assembly can be readily formed .byrniachinerycor by -a class of l'abor now'availzableior shoemakingtby mechanical "operations rather than-byzskilled or'first classshoemakers. 'To a'large extentstandard shoemaking equipment,*with which most --shoe'factories are now provided, may*be largely used .;and,;in* fact,the major portions: of the shoe parts as now produced are utilized without changes. The invention also has aidegree 'of 'fiexibility which'permits anumber of consecutive shoe sizes to be made by-the utilization of this invention.

lntthevdrawingsgFig. l represents-an assembly of a .toe piece,arcenter piece, 'an'd'ashoe shank in their rela- "tion' when built into a shoe;

Fig. 2. a longitudinalside view ofFig. 1;

Fig.1-31an assembly of a shoe last, the parts-shown in Fig. 1, and the shoe upper;

-Fig. 4a view of the underside of a 'shoelast-with the -'shank Land toe piece of 3 Fig. 5 1 attached 'thereto;

Fig. 5 'aiplan :view 'ofthe center piece of Fig. 1 assembled with theIlasting allowance of the upper;

Fig. 7 a top view of .a'ablank which is converted to form the vamplor upper of IhBEShOE;

.Fig 8the same-view -as F:ig.';3 showingia closed toe shoe and a full back;

Fig. 9. atop view of a blank-tofu closedshoet'which .is convertedto -formcthe vamp .and upper..-of thesshoe with one half of the back of .a: full-shoe secured thereto.

'The invention is illustrated in connection with an open toe and a closed toe shoeof va 4Brsize-and the proportions-in the drawingare substantially equal totheactual shoes and their parts.

"The toe piece 1, the centerpiece/2,;and.the: -shank 3, vcan all bestamped inquantities totthe desired: size and contour required for the 'particularsize andstyle of shoe which is.to.be made. .A lastof-the standard type,rrepresentingthe sizeof-shoeto be made and-for which the parts -areccut, is rutilized as 'a form-on which: to ".build theishoe. vA toe piece 1, whichzmaysbezproviddrwith .the section ofbinding 4 inmaking openshoesissecured ice 2 with tacksS to the uderside of the M516 and in its proper relationto the toe portion of the last to form a shoe of'the desired'size (as illustrated size 43). The shank 3 which has a standard configuration, which may also be provided with a binding 4 for an open shank and 'back,-is'provided near its forwardedge with a slit-7 thereby forming a strap :8 which remains integral with the shank body and is secured to the last by the tacks 5. The-prepared upper or vamp 9, cut in the usual manner, fortheisize shoe being made.(.4B) has secured to the edges of the lasting allowance 10-11 a section of elastic material, with the elastic thread running crosswise, forming the center piece 2. The center piece 2 is .cut to a width'so that it will be put under tension when assembled -withthe last. The difierencein the crosswise dimensions of the center piece to the shoe size should be suificient that when these parts are assembled on thelast '6 and the last is driven home into the upper, the resilient -material will be .under tension, drawing on the lasting allowances, on both sides of the upper, to draw them into their proper position .with respect to the 1ast;-a

stretch'of'about-a quarter of antinch has been found to'be 'sufiicient when the center piece is positioned on the last' The side edges of the center piece 2 is stitched in its 'proper position to the side edgesof thevamp or 'upper 9"with"over-edgestitches112, with the abutting side edges of the center piece and lastingv allowances -lying edge to edge and infiat relation (as shown in Fig. 5)

in *contradistinction.fro-overlapping. It will be observed that the combination of the lasting allowances and the "center piece are aunt and that they'have the general contour of that 'portion of the last which lies between *theinner edges of the toe piece and the shank. The "combined vamp and'centerupiece are then drawn into position over 'thellast as shownin Fig. 3, the upper portion of the'vamp having been initially cut to fit the -last6, the-lasting allowancereadily assuming its proper position on'theilast, the centerpiece '2 stretchingand being put-un'der tension to'permit the lasting allowance to be drawn into'position .on the.last. and when in position to keep itunder' tension. The'forward portion of the lasting allowancewill overlap the toe piece, and in an 'open'shoe (Fig. 3), will. expose to view the'bound edgeofthetoeipiece. The unitforrned by thevamp, allowances and centerpiece can be manipulated,.by the shoemaker, while on the last to orient the unit with respect-to the toe piece' The end of thecentertpiece nearest the'shank is .provided with a tongue-13 which is'passed under thestrap 8 .an'dthrough the slit 7 when the vamp and the centerpiece are positionedon the last. The shoemaker can grasp the tongue 13 and draw upon it which *tends to assist in positioning the vamp .and center piece'on "thelast. The relative positions of the toe piece L'center'pieCe 2, and shank 3,,are illustrated in 'Fig. l andthesesame parts together with the lasting allowance and the vamp are illustrated in 1 Fig. 3vposi- 'tione'd onthe-last'fi. The shoemaker, when the .-.parts -arezassembled on'the'last, will then apply one ofthe standard 'quick'drying adhesives or cements, used in the shoemakingindustry, to the'lasting allowance where it engages the toe'piece'l'andiwill also apply such adhesive to'the underside'of'the' tongue'13 to adhere it to the shank. A staple may be used to secure the tongue, strap and shank'together instead'of using adhesive or cement. The shoemakeriwillthen apply the steel shank .14 in its usual place, preferably securing it at the 'forward edge-through the strap 8;and tonguel13 by -any..known means. The shoe'is then ready to receive inlheusual manner the usual outsole' and heel, the tacks,,5 .being Withdrawn before theontsolev and heel are applied. -The sole when= attached to the shoebythe standard adhesives, cements or otherwise fixes "the'parts' in the shoe'in the same relation as they were formed on the last. The shoe may also be provided with a lining.

The tension of the center piece is uniform and continuous along the edges of the lasting allowance. This tension therefore acts along the entire line of the lasting allowance on both sides and not only takes up slack in the lasting allowance but also pulls the upper uniformly tight on the last.

The elastic material, from which the center piece 2 is formed, is an elastic material which has the capacity of being stretched by the application of manual pull and is preferably of the Woven fabric type, having elastic threads incorporated therein during manufacture, which fabric, can be stretched by manual pull and will return to its original contracted condition when released. Such a fabric is extensively used in the industries in making garments with elastic sections or gores and is known as elastic fabric with one way stretch. Such one way stretch fabric may be illustrated by the widely known Lastex elastic fabrics.

The center piece 2, although cut to accommodate and fit a 4B size shoe, may be used at least in the two next larger sizes-4 /2B and 5B, the elasticity of the center piece being sufficient to exert the required tension on the lasting allowances of the two larger sizes, the only requirement being that the center piece stretch to a slightly larger extent.

It is to be observed that the center piece 2 does not extend from side edge to side edge of the last. It is in fact slightly shorter than the distance between the edges of the lasting allowances when on the last. The latter distance should be about one-eighth of an inch on each side of the center piece, which will require the center piece to stretch when the last is inserted and forced home into the combined vamp or upper and center piece. The center piece and allowance are in edge to edge relation, lying flat and substantially in the same plane. This arrangement not only eliminates excess thickness but makes possible the elimination of objectionable gathers and pleats and causes the tension of the center piece to be exerted on the side edges of the lasting allowance drawing them towards each other and exerting a pull on the vamp proper tending to keep it smooth.

It is further to be observed-that whereas the toe piece and shank are fixed to the last, which is a replica of the shoe to be made in size and shape, the unit forming the vamp or upper and the center piece are limp and unstiffened when united and consequently can be molded or drawn to the shape of the last when the last is inserted into the unit. The parts of the unit can be manipulated or adjusted by the shoemaker to obtain a proper relation of the unit parts to the last and to the toe piece and shank.

Inasmuch as the unit of center piece and vamp or upper are initially free and unattached or secured to the toe piece or shank, the manipulation of the unit by the shoemaker is entirely free and, as he manipulates the vamp, upper, center piece and last, the center piece automatically readjusts the tension on the vamp, upper, allowances, and center piece.

Such parts are held, as so manipulated and adjusted, by the tension of the center piece. In fact, these parts are finally established in their permanent positions when the outer sole is secured to the lasting allowance.

In the course of the manufacture of shoes as heretofore practiced, the lasting allowance when it is applied to the last must be conformed to the curvature it is to take by taking up the excess material in small folds or pleats. The pleats cause an unevenness which the shoemaker must eliminate as well as possible by flattening the pleats. The elimination of the pleats requires considerable skill and has been the source of annoyance to shoemakers. In order to overcome these objections the vamp and its lasting allowance is cut to the configuration shown in Fig. 7 when making an open toe shoe.

Two. 'V-shaped cutouts -15 and 1 6- 16 are vmade in the outer edges of the lasting allowance as shown in Fig. 7. These cutouts at their mouths are about A of an inch wide and A of an inch deep. The two forward V-shaped cutouts 15-15 have their bordering edges brought together into abutting relation and stitched together as shown at 17 in Fig. 5. These stitches are made before the center piece 2 is attached to the lasting allowance. After the vamp and the center piece are drawn over the last the edges defining the V-shaped cutouts 16-16 are brought together into abutting relation, tacked to the shank and. then cemented to the shank. The material eliminated by the V-shaped cutouts 15-16 is suflicient to eliminate the pleats or gatherings, above referred to, and with the tension of the center piece is sufficient to produce a smooth lasting allowance free of gathers or pleats.

When the lasting allowances 10-11 and the center piece 2 are united to form the unit shown in Fig. 5, it is preferred that the edges of the center piece and of the lasting allowance, which are to be stitched together, are laid in overlapping relation and then the over-edge stitching applied. When the stitching is completed the edges can be pulled into abutting relation as shown in Fig. 5 inorder that there should be no overlap of these edges but rather that the lasting allowance and the center piece lie in the same plane. The elasticity or resiliency of the center piece permits such parts to be drawn in abutting relation, particularly if the tension on the overedge sewing machine is not too great.

This invention is also illustrated in connection with a closed toe and full back shoe in Fig. 8. The vamp of a closed toe shoe (the size as shown is 4B) is made as shown in Fig. 9, with two back portions, only one (19) of which is shown in Fig. 9. The vamp in this instance is provided with three sets of V-shaped cutouts 20-20, 21-21, and 22-22. The V-shaped cutouts 20-20 and 21-21 correspond to 16-16, 15-15, respectively, of Fig. 7 and the cutouts 22-22 are required to eliminate gathers because of the style and added material in the closed toe shoe in contradistinction to the open toe shoe of Fig. 3. The V-shaped cutouts 21-21 are stitched together before the center piece 2 is inserted as shown at 23 in Fig. 8. The operation of making the shoe is the same as heretofore explained.

The edges of the material forming the V-shaped cutouts 20-20 and 22-22 are brought together, as shown at 24, by hand while the shoe is on the last and tacked in such relation to the last; the shoemaker then applies cement to the cutouts adhering them to the underlying toe piece and shank.

The number and arrangement of the V-shaped cutouts are illustrated in connection with shoes of 4B size of the styles and patterns shown. As the pattern may change, the shoemaker may determine to increase the number of cutouts depending upon his judgment of the amount of excess material to be eliminated.

The V-shaped cutouts will not eliminate the gathers of a closed toe shoe, this being taken care of by the bed lasting machine.

When the blank of the upper is cut as shown in Figs. 7 and 9, the lines along the cutouts 15, 16, 20, 21 and 22 are straight whereas the edges of the center piece are cut on a curve or are to approximately the curve or are of the last. Consequently, when these edges are brought together, there is an excess of material in the lasting allowance, which ordinarily forms the'objectionable gatherings or pleats. By forming the V-cutouts 15, 16, 20, 21 and 22 the excess material is eliminated and when the edges forming the V-cutouts are abutted and secured together, as heretofore described, the outer lines of the lasting allowances are shortened and conform more generally with the curvature or are of the center piece.

In this specification and in the claims the words shoe and.sho'emaking are intended to refer and include not only shoes per se but also open and closed toe and back shoes, pumps and related types of footwear.

I claim:

1. A shoe having a bottom unit having a toe piece, a rear part member provided with a generally transverse slit adjacent to its forward extremity, a center piece substantially narrower than the toe piece and the rear part member, the forward extremtiy of the center piece underlying the toe piece and the rearward extremity of the center piece overlying that portion of the rear part member forward of the slit, extending through the slit, and underlying that portion of the rear part member rearward of the slit.

2. A shoe comprising a fitted upper member having a lasting allowance, a center piece narrower than the shoe bottom, the forward portion of the lasting margin of the upper being secured to the center piece in edge-to-edge relation, a toe piece overlying the forward extremity of the forepart member, and a rear part member slitted transversely immediately inside its forward end, the rear portion of the center piece being drawn through said slit and the rear part of the lasting allowance underlying the margin of the rear part member.

3. In a shoe, a fitted upper member having a lasting allowance, an elastic girth stretcher narrower than the shoe bottom secured to the forward portion of the lasting allowance in edge-to-edge relation, and a rear part member having a transverse slit adjacent to its forward extremity, the rear portion of the girth stretcher overlying that portion of the rear part member forward of the slit, extending through the slit, and underlying that portion of the rear part member rearward of the slit, the rear part of the lasting allowance underlying and secured to the margin of the rear part member.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 204,785 Ballou June 11, 1878 254,966 Hawkes Mar. 14, 1882 1,784,806 Fried Dec. 9, 1930 2,135,170 Cavanagh Nov. 1, 1938 2,185,993 Haskell Jan. 2, 1940 2,312,124 Rosenzweig Feb. 23, 1943 2,361,511 Stritter Oct. 31, 1944 2,373,264 Russell Apr. 10, 1945 2,414,204 Kamborian Jan. 14, 1947 2,428,210 Forslund Sept. 30, 1947 2,451,570 Lyness Oct. 19, 1948 2,466,637 Carson Apr. 5, 1948 2,485,114 Sanchioni Oct. 18, 1949 2,492,782 Caltabiano et al. Dec. 27, 1949 2,696,683 Ciaio Dec. 14, 1954 FOREIGN PATENTS 2,425 Great Britain 1898 320,127 Germany Apr. 14, 1920 493,544 Belgium Feb. 15, 1950 

